I’m diving in to sour beers headfirst. Since I don’t have a clue how any method will turn out I figure I might as well try 4 methods on the first attempt. I mean why not? <\/p>\n
Upfront is the plan for the beers (30a, b, c, and d). Below that are various questions or bits of information I ran across when trying to figure out what I’m getting myself into. Along the way I discovered Milk the Funk<\/a> and the Mad Fermentationist<\/a> that have turned out to be invaluable. <\/p>\n <\/p>\n The base recipe is based on the Rare Barrel golden recipe. I’ve upped the OG to 1.060 so the pre-boil will be 1.051 for the raw beers (30a and 30b), will mash at 148, and will add first wort hops to 3 IBUs. After 5.5G taken for the raw beers, I’ll will add water to drop actual OG to 1.052 and add ~25 IBUs. The water profile will be Brewers Friend’s Water Calculator<\/a> Balanced Profile water. <\/p>\n I plan to sit on these for about a year before thinking about any blending ideas. Any thoughts of adding fruit to anything will be determined after sampling and more research (which I’ll have time to do). <\/p>\n This will be a raw beer with lacto. Then 1\/2 will be 30a which will be clean fermented and then Brett added . The other 1\/2 will be Brett only.<\/p>\n Here are a few more plans for these beers<\/p>\n The third beer will be ~5.5G and will be a Pedio\/Brett fermentation <\/p>\n The fourth beer will be ~5.5G and will be primary fermented Sacc then Brett (I know this isn’t a sour, but should be fun anyhow) <\/p>\n I’m a bit freaked out about all of these e\\new bugs so here is a list of new gear that I think I’ll need.<\/p>\n Use extra caution cleaning<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Here are a few other random notes I captured while looking into this idea. It isn’t cleaned up.<\/p>\n http:\/\/jeffreycrane.blogspot.com\/2015\/06\/blending-calculator-ph-abv-and.html?m=1<\/p>\n <\/p>\n https:\/\/www.homebrewtalk.com\/forum\/threads\/best-cleaning-method-after-sour-beer.529378\/<\/p>\n You can try: (You can use Hydrogen Peroxide or One Step in addition – it kills with Oxygen).<\/p>\n No need for new bottling equipment, use glass and just clean really good.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Raw beer watch out for DMS creation and pasturize before starting<\/p>\n DMS temp (Milk the Funk<\/a>): DMS forming temp\/time (Homebrew talk<\/a>) 2) No-boil = no sanitation<\/i> If need more Beer 1a to blend in with then this fastest beer to turn around<\/p>\n Need new bottling equipment. Glass just clean really good.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n DMS temp (Milk the Funk<\/a>): DMS forming temp\/time (Homebrew talk<\/a>) 2) No-boil = no sanitation<\/i> I’m diving in to sour beers headfirst. Since I don’t have a clue how any method will turn out I figure I might as well try 4 methods on the first attempt. I mean why not? Upfront is the plan for the beers (30a, b, c, and d). Below that are various questions or bits […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[249],"tags":[183,439,434,436,112,440,435,438,437,433],"class_list":["post-1931","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-beers","tag-all-grain","tag-bootleg-biology","tag-brett","tag-brettanomyces","tag-home-brew","tag-imperial-yeast","tag-lactobacillus","tag-no-boil","tag-raw","tag-sour"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1931","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1931"}],"version-history":[{"count":23,"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1931\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1969,"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1931\/revisions\/1969"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1931"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1931"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/bt.beerprojects.com\/wordpress\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1931"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}Base Recipe<\/h2>\n
30a & 30b<\/h2>\n
\n
\n– Need starter: no need for starter
\n– monitor for 2-3 days<\/li>\n\n
\n
beer 30c<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
\n–need to worry about time on yeast cake? No.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\nbeer 30d<\/h2>\n
\n
\n— clean or belgain yeast? US-05<\/li>\n\n
New gear<\/h2>\n
\n
\n
Other random notes<\/h2>\n
\na) PBW – to dissolve any particles. Clean before and after with soap and water and a dedicated sponge.
\nb) 1 gallon of water + 1 ounce bleach + 1 ounce of vinegar (added to the water, not the bleach directly). Let it sit 5 minutes then dump out and air dry. [this is the sanitize concentration, and may not kill all bacteria]
\nFollow up with
\nc) Iodophor – 2 minute contact time, then air dry.<\/p>\nRaw Beer Notes<\/h3>\n
\nThe primary source for DMS in beer (as well as cooked vegetables) is caused by the decomposition of SMM into DMS. This decomposition is caused by heat above ~80\u00b0C.(176\u00b0F)
\nAllow the beer to age longer, particularly if it contains Brettanomyces. Studies in lambic brewing have shown that DMS will volatilize over time if left in the fermenter.<\/p>\n
\nConversion happens around 70C. Rapid conversion happens around 80C. I’ve seen information that says the conversion of SMM to DMSO occurs “above 60C.” Brewing: science and practice<\/a> – Google Books<\/p>\nAnticipated issues to overcome, and how I resolved them (Experimental Brewing)<\/b><\/a>
\n1) No-boil = DMS<\/i>
\nNot necessarily. My understanding is that DMS is produced at 180 degrees, which explains why true no-boil berliner’s don’t have a DMS profile. As long as the mash and mashout stay below 180, it won’t be a problem.<\/h4>\n
\nAgain, not necessarily. Pasteurization occurs at 160 degrees in just a few seconds, so as long as the mashout is above 160, no problems.<\/p>\n
\nRaw beer watch out for DMS creation and pasturize before starting<\/p>\n
\nThe primary source for DMS in beer (as well as cooked vegetables) is caused by the decomposition of SMM into DMS. This decomposition is caused by heat above ~80\u00b0C.(176\u00b0F)
\nAllow the beer to age longer, particularly if it contains Brettanomyces. Studies in lambic brewing have shown that DMS will volatilize over time if left in the fermenter.<\/p>\n
\nConversion happens around 70C. Rapid conversion happens around 80C. I’ve seen information that says the conversion of SMM to DMSO occurs “above 60C.” Brewing: science and practice<\/a> – Google Books<\/p>\nAnticipated issues to overcome, and how I resolved them (Experimental Brewing)<\/b><\/a>
\n1) No-boil = DMS<\/i>
\nNot necessarily. My understanding is that DMS is produced at 180 degrees, which explains why true no-boil berliner’s don’t have a DMS profile. As long as the mash and mashout stay below 180, it won’t be a problem.<\/span><\/h4>\n
\nAgain, not necessarily. Pasteurization occurs at 160 degrees in just a few seconds, so as long as the mashout is above 160, no problems. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"