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Inspiration

For beer number #11 I decided that I wanted to see who well I can make a beer.  My last couple of beers have come out good to me, but I have no idea if they came out like they were supposed to.  So for beer #11 I’ve decided I’m going to do a clone recipe and then try to do a side by side comparison to see how I have done.  With that decided, I also want the beer to be ready fairly quick and I’ve been thinking about a hoppy beer since #6 Imperial Red IPA.  So what to pick.  I took a look through the beers that I’ve marked on Untappd for some motivation.  I really liked Shipwrecked by Mission Brewery, but after scouring the internet I couldn’t find any recipes for it and I certainly cannot make up one on my own.  When doing this I ran across several links for Pliny the Elder by Russian River Brewery (RRB).  I’ve had this a couple of times, once at the brewery and another time at Naja’s, and I think I’ll be able to get this again either at the Store or through a visit to Rollie.

Research

Recipe Notes

So after looking at a few pages I’ve discovered that this is going to take a bit of research as there is no definitive recipe.  I’ve done as much research as I can stand and have looked for articles and interviews about Vinnie Cilurozo (RRB owner and PTE recipe inventor) where he might give hints about the recipe.  Secondly, I’ve also looked for others that have cloned this beer and their direct comparisons to the real Pliny the Elder.  Lastly, I’ve taken some notes from those that do a comparison of their clone to their recollection of the Pliny the Elder which in most cases is probably suspect.  There are a ton of posts about that the recipe is great, which I imagine is the case, but I’m looking to hit PTE on the head if I can.

The starting point for the recipe is from an article from Zymurgy by Vinnie  in 2009.  In this article Vinnie gives a recipe for Pliny the Elder.  Apparently there was a typo in the first release that had the amounts sized for 5G instead of 6G, but the attached PDF is the corrected version.  Also on EC Kraus there is a reference to a recipe in Brewing Classic Styles by Jamil Zainasheff that may have had input by Vinnie.  I can see that the OG is much higher, the grain bill and hop schedule are different.  So at this point I think this recipe is not a clone, but rather just a good DIPA.

There is a rather good interview on the Sunday Session by the Brewing Network.  In this I’ve noted (as many others have reported)

  • generic extract is used, no pellets, for the 90 min and 45 min addition
    • The original recipe used a mix of CTZ and Warrior extract, but is now only generic
    • Sometimes they use pellets to dial in the right amount of hops as only whole cans are used.  Thought this didn’t seem significant
  • When Amarillo was added no other hop additions were reduced
  • All hop additions are pellet hops, ie no whole leaf additions
  • Crystal has been reduced.  No indication of how much

There is also a rather lengthy forum on HomeBrewTalk.com that I’ve gotten a few notes from.  #63 by RichBenn says this is pretty spot on, but maybe the comparison wasn’t side by side since the PTE he has is at a bar.  The quote below is one of the few direct comparisons that I’ve come across.

#431 by D-Train I had the opportunity to try my execution of this clone side by side with a bottle of Pliny tonight. Keep in mind that I’m fairly new to brewing and maybe experience would change the results. They were close, but there are a few things I would change next time.

1. Add Amarillo to the dry/late addition hops. The real Pliny was definitely weighted more to the citrus side. The clone had more dank/pine. I’ve read that Pliny now includes Amarillo.
2. Use only 2 hopshots for the first addition. I used 3 hopshots and the clone was more bitter. Earlier I posted that I was using hop extract for the recipe.
3. Make it lighter in color by reducing the crystal and/or boiling for 60 mins instead of 90 and/or increasing the dextrose. I scaled up the recipe and went with 14lb 2row, 0.6lb carapils, 0.6lb crystal, 12 oz dextrose. The clone was more orange and the Pliny more yellow.
4. Switch to RO water and the additions in the chemistry primer on this site. So far I’ve ignored water chemistry in my brews. I have high pH, high alkalinity tap water with chlorine and I think it’s limiting the full potential of my brews.

All said the above differences were not significant. With a few tweaks I don’t think a blind test would pick the real Pliny. Again it could simply be my execution of the recipe. Caveat emptor.

Some thoughts on this.

For #1, a look at the RRB website of Pliny the Elder and as the Sunday session interview notes that Amarillo is now in the recipe which wasn’t in the original.  Since I’m trying to do a taste comparison I’ve added Amarillo where I think it might go.

#2 shows he used hop shots.  In other articles (#85, 5 tips for better IPAs by Vinnie recommends extracts, and oldschool hints that a Sunday Session recording states the real PTE uses extracts too), it is noted that that the 90 and 45min additions of PTE are extract additions, so this is some good information.  Its also worth pointing out that the Vinnie recipe shows the AA values for each hops.  When looking online it seems that the AA levels are a bit higher that noted by Vinnie.  I don’t think I’m going to adjust for this now except for in the extract additions, but it might be something worth tweaking if I do this again.  Now there is the issue of converting the hops to extract amounts.  To do this I partially used two websites.  The first, from brewer’s friend,  I user to convert the hop additions to an IBU calculation.  The second I use to convert the IBU calculation into an extract amount.  The extract calculation uses a utilization faction which is more or less a function of the amount of time the extract is in contact with boiling wort and the amount of wort it can be in contact with.  I’ve noticed that it doesn’t quite account for the volume right, so I’ve looked at the html source to get the calculations and have made the needed adjustments.  The adjustments are slight and probably won’t make a difference in the end, but being an engineer I wanted to see the math done right.  My calculations show that 18.75mL and 4.34mL of extract is needed for the two additions.  From what D-train recommended 2 hop shots instead of 3 (I’ve translated this to be 10mL instead of 15mL) whereas I’m going to be even higher.  I think I’ll stick to my calculations for now and see what I think too, but it is probably that not only has Amarillo been added, but that the extract has gone down too to please more pallets and/or to reduce the cost (though RRB  does seem to make too many recipe decisions on cost).

#3, color, is interesting.   It seems to have been repeated by VTCCbrewer (#295) though one note on this one is that he mentions is volume is slightly low which would affect the color too. bobbrews (#131) has a similar suspicion as I do that perhaps crystal 40 is used rather than crystal 45 and MMjfan (#161) suggests 1/2 the amount crystal 40 at 0.3lbs.  After adjusting the recipe to this the OG sits at 1.071.  When looking at the PTE website is states an OG of 1.070, but if you look back through the web archives it can be seen that this was 1.071 circa 2005 (and 1.073 circa 2004). So I think this is on the right track and I’ll go with it.  Funny thing is that after making the adjustments I come up with a grain bill almost the same as Scott (bertusbrewery.com) on his PTE 3.0 review.  Aside from the fast that his reviews are a recollection of his tasting it at least feels nice that I’ve ended up with what one person thinks is pretty good after adjusting twice.

Water.  As noted in #4 water should be addressed.  My first attempt at water adjustments was on #10 Irish Red.  I didn’t quite have a handle on things then, nor do I really know what I’ve doing now, but I’ve been reading a lot since then and think I can at least do better.  Another HBT forum discusses PTE water which concludes by saq (#5) that the water profile should be:

  •  Calcium (CA) 76
  • Magnesium (MG) 13
  • Sodium (NA) 9
  • Bicarbonate (HCO3) 26
  • Sulfate (SO4) 133
  • Chloride (CL) 56

 Process Notes

per Vinnie’s article.

  • Mash will be at 151 (or the closest I can do this)
  • Stir in the dextrose at the start of the boil
  • ferment at 67
    • last two days drop to 60F to get yeast out then transfer to secondary
      • I won’t keep the yeast, but think I’ll cool to 52 to help clear things up as best as possible prior to mucking things up again with dry hops.
  • dry hop at 68F
  • Vinnie notes that he does a C02 blast every day or so to keep the hops in suspension.  I don’t have C02 for this, but will swirl like paradoc suggests in this post.
  • last 2 days of dry hopping is at cold crash temps
  • purge with CO2 if you have it….I don’t

In a (need to find link) Vinnie notes that PTE takes 21-24 days.   This is up to kegging so for me I need to add 3 days for fining and 3 weeks for bottle conditioning.  My schedule at 25 days, not counting conditioning, is pretty close to Vinnie’s schedule

  • 8 days fermenting
  • 2 days cool crash to 52
  • 7 days first dry hop, 12-5 days
  • 3 days second dry hop
  • 2 days cold crash
  • 3 days gelatin
  • 21 days conditioning

The yeast, Cal Ale WLP001, normally has an attenuation around 76.5% and according to White Labs attenuation ranges from 73-80%.  With the corn sugar, many people have noted that they can get near the a FG of 1.011 which places the attenuation around 85%. to get to 8.0% with the grain bill I’ve selected I’ll need to get 86.1% which seems within reason.

Finally, the name for my clone.  As is pointed out by RRB and many other sources, Pliny the Elder gave the name or at least recorded the name for hops as he was an author of many books.  From Wikipedia, it notes that:

He (Pliny the Elder) published a three-book, six-volume educational manual on rhetoric, entitled Studiosus, “the Student”

Just maybe my blog has enough rhetoric where you think I have the best plan possible to clone Pliny the Elder.

Rhetoric: the art of effective or persuasive speaking or writing, especially the use of figures of speech and other compositional techniques.

With that beer #11 will be called The Student

Links

Here are the list of links I bookmarked while researching this recipe.

 Recipe:  The Student

Ingredients

Grain

  • 13.25 lb Two-Row pale malt
  • 0.3 lb Crystal 40 malt
  • 0.6 lb Carapils (Dextrin) Malt
  • 0.75 lb Dextrose (corn) sugar

Hops

  • 90 min boil
    • 3.5 oz Columbus (US)
    • replaced with 18.75mL of extract
  • 45 min boil
    • 0.75 oz Columbus (US)
    • replaced with 4.34mL of extract
  • 30 min boil
    • 1.0 oz Simcoe (US)
  • 20 min whirlpool
    • 2.5 oz Simcoe (US)
    • 1.0 oz Centennial (US)
  • 12 days Dry Hop
    • 1.0 oz Simcoe (US)
    • 1.0 oz Centennial (US)
    • 1.0 oz Columbus (US)
    • 1.0 oz Amarillo (US)
  • 5 days Dry Hop
    • 0.25 oz Simcoe (US)
    • 0.25 oz Centennial (US)
    • 0.25 oz Columbus (US)
    • 0.25 oz Amarillo (US)
  • *Tomahawk/Zeus can be substituted for Columbus

Yeast

  • White Labs WLP001 California Ale Yeast
    • attenuation at 86.1% due to corn sugar

for 6.0 gallons into primary, Hopefully, net 5 gallons after hop loss

Original Gravity: 1.071
Final Gravity: 1.010
Efficiency: 75 percent
ABV: 8.0%
SRM: 4

Directions (mostly from Vinnie’s article)

  1. Mash grains at 151-152° F (66-67° C) for an hour or until starch conversion is complete.
  2. Mash out at 170° F (77° C) and sparge.
  3. Collect wort, bring to a boil for 90 mins
  4. Stir in dextrose
  5. Add hops as indicated in the recipe.
  6. After a boil and whirlpool, chill wort to 67° F (19° C)
  7. Transfer to fermenter.
  8. Aerate well
  9. Pitch yeast starter
  10. Ferment at 67° F (19° C) until fermentation activity subsides, then rack
    to secondary.
  11. Add first set of dry hops on top of the racked beer and age
  12. Then add the second set and age
  13. Then bottle after adding priming sugar.

 

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  • Beer Name: Burnin’ Spades RIPA
  • Style:  Black, Rye, IPA
  • Alcohol: 7.1%
  • Color: unknown

My first venture into all grain brewing has literally blown up in front of me.  So who know how it tastes, but here is what happened.   After coming home from vacation I saw liquid coming from the fermentation chamber.  When I opened the doors about 6 bottle or so had exploded at the bottom.  So I took everything out and cleaned things up, exactly what you want to do after a long travel day.  Just as I was putting the beers back in the fridge, the bottom of a six pack broke open and the bottles dropped maybe a foot.  Well all 6 of those bottles exploded.  Sounded like a bomb went off.  I was lucky no glass hit my face, but my legs and feet were not so lucky and had blood streaming down.  Now I had another mess to clean up.  So while I was cleaning that up 2 more bottles exploded just sitting on the sidewalk.  Awesome, I have bottle bombs.  Not wanting to loose everything. I place the remaining beer bottles in a cooler and inside my fridge.  That night I heads several more explode…sounded like a gun shot.  Hoping to save the beers, I planned to pop the tops on the remaining bottles and then re-cap them.  I put on my bomb squad gear (an old paintball face mask, a thick long sleeve, and some gloves) and reached into the cooler to take the tops off.  The first one gushed everywhere, same with the second, third and so on.  After a bit there was so much foam I was just feeling through the cooler to find unopened bottles.  Well needless to say this was a total loss.  I did try about half a glass full just to see what it was like and it was sweet almost like the raw wort.

So here is what I think happened.  During my last batch of beer my fridge died, so I didn’t really have good fermentation control while this beer was fermenting.  We had really hot days and warm nights.  I think the yeast shutdown due to the high temperatures.  I should have noticed that my final gravity reading was high and done something, but just moved right into bottling.  After I bottled I also replaced the AC unit with a min-fridge coils and was able to set the temp.  I think when I did this the yeast woke up again and started chomping on all the unprocessed sugars, thus creating my bottle bombs.

On the fun side, I got some 3/4″ stickers to make cap labels for my beers.  I got lucky and made labels for my previous beers as I had to move my bottles all around while cleaning.  Making a label is now part of my beer making process.

My Brew Notes

Recipe Info

 Recipe Notes

Execution Notes

Tried making a 2L starter in a 2L flask.  Resulted in a boil over.  Separated into two flask for the boil then recombined when they cooled.  Ended up with 1.6L of the 2L.

First time making all grain batch.  MLT filter was too small and got a stuck sparge.  I knew what my number were supposed to be, but wasn’t prepared to be able to measure if I was hitting them or not (ie. depth to volume conversions). Messed around switching in a different filter which caused the temps to go wild.  Through all the hops directly in which wasn’t so bad.  What was bad way the bag I had to catch the gunk at the output end of the hose when transferring to the primary got clogged up and ended up not using it which passed a lot of material in the fermenter.  When transferring to bottling bucket the the filter around the tube also was causing problems so a lot of material ended up in bottles.  Need to do this better next time

Schedule

  • Brew day: 6/13/2014
  • Cold Crash Start: N/A (Broken fermentation chamber)
  • Secondary Fermentation: 7/2/2014
  • Dry Hopping: 7/29/2014
  • Cold Crash 2: N/A
  • Gelatin: N/A
  • Bottling Prep: 8/4/2014
  • Bottling: 8/5/2014

Recommendations for next time

  • Get the filtering down much better
  • Make sure the fermentation chamber is working
  • Know numbers better and know how to take measurements

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homebrewtalk.com forum

I’ve been working to understand my various volume measurements throughout brew day and wonder how Trub and other material is handled. For instance, from my batch sparging I have an idea how much grain absorption and MLT losses to expect, but I know when I do a pre-boil volume measurement there is a fair amount of material in there that is going to add to the measurement.

Also, when doing a, lets say, 5g recipe I assume the is the amount of wort into the fermenter. Is this correct? I know that the amount of trub carried into the fermenter various by beer and beer maker so how does one account for the variations?

Trub impacts to volume measurements and calculations

homebrewtalk.com forum

Currently I gravity feed my immersion chiller. I’ve used a pump in the past, but from what I’ve discovered it isn’t the rate of water that is effecting the rate at which i can chill the beer (gravity is just fine) it is the amount of wort that comes in contact with the beer. So to help things along I’ve been stirring with a spoon. I’m working on adding a pump into my brewing setup to make life easier on me, but I’m not too sure how to go about priming the pump. I plan to have a simple inlet and outlet pipes with 90 bends to push the water around and through the coils of the chiller. I’m not going for a whirlpool affect, at least for now, with my wimpy pump but am just trying to move the wort around the coils without me stirring. For the record i have a valve on my kettle, but I don’t want to use that as I have a filter around it that I want to keep clear until I transfer to the primary. . Anybody have any suggestions of how to go about priming my setup? I know adding another valve would solve my problem, but I’m looking for other ideas as I’m not too keen on this idea as I want this idea to work with several other kettles. Thanks.

Priming Suggestion

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homebrewtalk.com forum

I’ve been looking around for differences between the plastic and stainless heads on the chugger pumps. Of course most people say go with the stainless, but I’ve yet to see any rational for it other than fear that the plastic might break (haven’t seen anyone actually report one breaking).

I’m looking to hear from those that have plastic heads or have converted from plastic to stainless what their experiences are.

Chugger Pump Head – PP vs SS

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