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I’ve been working to understand my various volume measurements throughout brew day and wonder how Trub and other material is handled. For instance, from my batch sparging I have an idea how much grain absorption and MLT losses to expect, but I know when I do a pre-boil volume measurement there is a fair amount of material in there that is going to add to the measurement.

Also, when doing a, lets say, 5g recipe I assume the is the amount of wort into the fermenter. Is this correct? I know that the amount of trub carried into the fermenter various by beer and beer maker so how does one account for the variations?

Trub impacts to volume measurements and calculations

homebrewtalk.com forum

Currently I gravity feed my immersion chiller. I’ve used a pump in the past, but from what I’ve discovered it isn’t the rate of water that is effecting the rate at which i can chill the beer (gravity is just fine) it is the amount of wort that comes in contact with the beer. So to help things along I’ve been stirring with a spoon. I’m working on adding a pump into my brewing setup to make life easier on me, but I’m not too sure how to go about priming the pump. I plan to have a simple inlet and outlet pipes with 90 bends to push the water around and through the coils of the chiller. I’m not going for a whirlpool affect, at least for now, with my wimpy pump but am just trying to move the wort around the coils without me stirring. For the record i have a valve on my kettle, but I don’t want to use that as I have a filter around it that I want to keep clear until I transfer to the primary. . Anybody have any suggestions of how to go about priming my setup? I know adding another valve would solve my problem, but I’m looking for other ideas as I’m not too keen on this idea as I want this idea to work with several other kettles. Thanks.

Priming Suggestion

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homebrewtalk.com forum

I’ve been looking around for differences between the plastic and stainless heads on the chugger pumps. Of course most people say go with the stainless, but I’ve yet to see any rational for it other than fear that the plastic might break (haven’t seen anyone actually report one breaking).

I’m looking to hear from those that have plastic heads or have converted from plastic to stainless what their experiences are.

Chugger Pump Head – PP vs SS

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homebrewtalk.com forum

I’ve used gelatin in a secondary and have been able to bottle condition just fine. I’m working on making a Kolsch and want to see how clear I can get this to be. Any experiences or thoughts on cold crashing and using gelatin in the primary and repeating it again the same steps later in the secondary?

Double gelatin – primary and secondary

homebrewtalk.com forum

I’m copying the (Black Widow Kolsch recipe, but have made some adjustments for my efficiencies and losses which puts my hops Hallertauer hops to 1.25oz (60min boil). Since the hops come in 1oz bags I’m thinking about just using 1oz of Hallertauer and then using 0.25oz of Magnum which is leftover from my last batch. Seems to look like the profile is about where I want it (brewtoad recipe), but I’m wondering if anyone has any thoughts on the taste/smell impact as I’ll know is what I’ve read from freshhops

Magnum hops in a Kolsch?

homebrewtalk.com forum

I’ve read that the coleman 70Qt extreme cooler was a great cooler to convert to a MLT, but wanted a little bit larger one. So I got the 100qt version online thinking it would work out the same. On receiving it I’m second guessing my plan. Take a look at these pictures. 

I’m concerned the ridges inside will create a channeling effect when batch sparging. I don’t think the 70Qt version has these. 

The other thing that seems different from the 70Qt version is the drain channel. Pictures from the 70qt version look like there is a distinctive channel (and the sticker on 100qt version looks like it does too). However, the channel appears non-existent and the bottom looks flat (though I haven’t tested to wit the is a slope or not) 

What are your thoughts about the 100qt version? Should I keep it or look for a different cooler?

Thoughts on coleman xtreme 100qt cooler as a MLT

homebrewtalk.com forum

As with many posts I’m working to step up to all grain brewing, but I don’t want to have to do this again in a year so I’m trying to figure out the right criteria for selecting a kettle. I really don’t want to think in a year from now, “If only I had known …. before I bought my kettle”.

From what I’ve read here is my starting point
1) Choose stainless steel:

as opposed to aluminum which will pot over time

2) Choose 20G or greater kettle size:

I’d like to be able to do 10G batches if my heart desires. A 20G kettle will allow for high gravity 10G batches, smaller kettles will make things moer challenging. also, this eliminate the frequently suggested keggle idea as this is only a 15.5G kettle.

3) Can live without built in valves for now, but can upgrade late if desired:

I’m brewing without valves with no problems. I know valves will most likley make things easier, but it isn’t a firm requirement. Additionally, and perhaps more importantly its possible to punch/cut/drill holes and add valves at a later time, if/when desired

Open questions
4) Does 1-3 sound right, particularly #3?

I’ve read a lot of forums and such so far to get here, but I’m new to this and from what I’ve learned from doing extracts is that there is a lot to thing about when.

5) Does base thickness matter?

Seems like there are ranges from 1mm to 5mm. With most hovering around 2mm. I’m guessing this is for even heat distribution, but how much is enough

6) Does side thickness matter?

ranges from not specified to 1mm to 2.5mm. Seems like just about anything would work. Any issues with punching holes on a thin one later to add valves?

7) Need to be NSF certified?

Some claim to be, many don’t specify

8) build construction/materl

I’m not too familiar with the things I’ve seen a) aluminum wrapped/sandwhiched in stainless steel, b) 20 gauge stainless steel, c) 18/10 Stainless Steel, d) 18/10 T304 stainless steel, e) 3-Ply Bottom, and many more

9) Anything else?

I’m probably way over thinking this as I’ve seen posts from many happy brewers with pretty much all the pots I’ve taken a look at, but I haven’t been able to find any criteria for choose a kettle other than size recommendations. thanks for any feedback.

All Grain Kettle/Pot Quality Criteria

homebrewtalk.com forum post

I’ve only been making beers for a short while and it seems that I’ve had so many questions about how to go about doing it while I was in the middle of making the beer. So I wrote down my game plan for specialty grain brewing process on my little website (not a commercial site). I’ve also pasted the text in here in case you don’t care to go to a unknown location, but I didn’t mess with the formatting. Let me know if you have any advice and perhaps this will help someone else. Thanks. 

https://bt.beerprojects.com/wordpress/?p=716

Specialty Grain Brewing Process – Ales

homebrewtalk.com forum post

I have a brew that was supposed to have an OG of 1.080. When I measured it I got a reading of 1.077 after the correction (1.076 at 66 degrees). I took several measurements, spinning the hydrometer each time and consistently got the same result. I have a slight boil over, but other than that there really isn’t anything I can figure out how I didn’t get the expected OG. On top of that, using brewer’s friend extract calc I should be at 1.085 (5.25G water, 12 lbs LME).


Any ideas where I might have messed up?

Low OG with All Extract brew

homebrewtalk.com forum post

I’m curious to see how long others are seeing it take for the beer to get to the child crashed temperature? I have mine in a new self made fermentation chamber and it seems that it takes about 15-20 hours for it to go from 70 degrees to 37 degrees. The chamber is cold right away, but the thermal transfer is taking longer than I imagined

time to cold crash temperature?