After posting my beer making process to the Homebrew forums someone suggested that I look into yeast starters to ensure that I was getting enough yeast to ferment the wort.  A sign of low yeast is a slow start and from my last beer I certainly saw that with the fermentation not starting for 2-3 days.

After looking to this a bit more it turns out that I haven’t had enough yeast for most of my beers (low pitch count).  With my discovery being around Christmas time some of my wish list items were a 2000mL Ehrlenmeyer flask and a stir plate.  You can do starters without these, but the flask makes the heating and cooling pretty simple and the stir plate pretty much ensures that you only need one step for most beers.

Well I got the flask to use for my first yeast starter, but the stir plate is on back order.  For the beer I was making the OG is supposed to be 1.080 and according to the yeast calculators online I needed two steps.  The first step could fit in the flask, but the second step needed 4.5L which is too much for my flask.  I had a huge boil over here and it made quite the mess.  In the end though my yeast starter went great and caked out nice.

For the second step I wanted to avoid the boil over and after reading several forums there is some stuff called Fermcap-S which is an anti-foaming agent.  I went to the local home brew store and got a small bottle.  With just a few drops of this stuff I had no risk of a boil over.  This stuff is a must have.  Well since the second step wouldn’t fit in my flask I got some of the new cooled wort and put it into the flask (after pouring out the liquid from the first step).  I then shook it around real to break up the yeast cake and poured the whole thing into the cooled wort.  After a good amount of mixing I poured the contents into two containers, the flask and a emtpy bottle.  I followed the same steps and ended up with a really nice yeast cake in both.

When I used the starter for my beer I took some of the wort and gave each a good shake then pour the contents into the wort.  After just a few hours the yeast was fermenting and it did it so vigorously that I got a block air lock and a big mess in the fermentation chamber.  I had a good amount of foam on top of the wort when I packed it all up so hopefully with a bit more care I can avoid the air lock blockage, but my yeast starter sure worked great. Next time I hope to have the stir plate in hand to see how much easier (one less step) things go.   If you are curious about the steps to make a starter I’ve written my process on a fixed page so that I can keep refining it.

 

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homebrewtalk.com forum post

I’m curious to see how long others are seeing it take for the beer to get to the child crashed temperature? I have mine in a new self made fermentation chamber and it seems that it takes about 15-20 hours for it to go from 70 degrees to 37 degrees. The chamber is cold right away, but the thermal transfer is taking longer than I imagined

time to cold crash temperature?

Trying to start a project just as you become a dad isn’t the best plan, but I’ve finally completed my fermentation chamber after about 6 months.  I’m already making a beer in it and so far it is working great.  The ironic thing is that the temperature is about 70 degrees right now and the fermentation chamber doesn’t really have to do anything, but at least I’ve staying at a constant temperature.

First things first, here are pictures of the completed project  (click an image for a larger view)

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Supplies

I bought my things from four main places.  The temperature controllers came from E-bay, the A/C unit was from craigslist, the 110VAC lights, switches and relays are from Allelectronics.com, and the rest of the material was from Home Depot.  The box is made of 2x4s, 1/4 plywood, and 2 inch foam.  I used foam glue to attach the plywood to the foam and 2″ screws to join all the 2x4s.  To join the foam pieces together and cover holes I used Great Stuff.  After I add up all the pieces I spent just a bit under $500.  I bought a few tools, but was able to borrow most of the big tools from family and friends.  The most surprising thing was how expensive outlets, outlet boxes, fuse holders, and  the controller box were.

The Build

Overall the project came together pretty close to the plan.  I can’t cut straight, follow my directions, or paint, but other than that I did pretty good.  The borrowed tools really helped cutting relatively straight lines, not straight, but straight enough.  When I built the controller box I had a few errors that needed correcting, but that was fine and not completely unexpected.  I also didn’t like how my doors were going to seal so I added another foam border to help with that.

The control box almost was a disaster.  I used a bremel to cut out the switches with no problem.  The wiring went to plan.  I did have a bit of difficult soldering the wires to the switch contact points, but eventually got it.  the I used a few contact boards to provide a secure attach point for the external wires to the internal wires.  At the very end I almost couldn’t get the lid to close.  I had to move and twist the wires around and apply some pressure to finally seal things up.  I had two mistakes during this build.  First, my initial wiring for the relay looked really good, but upon testing I discovered that I did about 50% of the connections wrong and had to redo it all.  Finally, once it was all sealed up I discovered that my compression did break a couple of contacts that I had to go in and fix.  But in the end the controller works great and looks pretty good.

As an extra thing that I worked on while I couldn’t get down to the garage is that I converted two old cell phones into IP webcams, one to watch the control panel and the other inside the chamber to watch the fermenting process and to double check temperatures.  To get my wifi signal to reach the garage I had to setup a wifi repeater.  The two phones were android phones and I was able to use free apps to setup the webcams.  I installed IP Webcam for the webcams, droid VNC server to get into the phone remotely along with Screen Widget to turn the screen off (if needed).  Finally, I can watch the webcams with the built in webpages from IP Webcam and I also use IP CAM Controller to see things from my phone.  I had planned for this which is why I have an outlet not controlled by the STC-1000s so that the internal cell phone could remain on all the time.

Here are several photos during the build  (click an image for a larger view)

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Looking Back

Now that I’ve build my project I think I’d do it a bit different next time.

  1. I’d probably simplify all the cuts I have to do and make the outer plywood fit around the foam entirely then have the 2×4 brace around it.  This would make the project cost just a bit more, but it would save so much time.
  2. I’d make the doors fit flush with the outside edges rather than fit inside the openings to make the seals easier.  I didn’t follow my original plan for the doors as I was worried they wouldn’t seal well.
  3. I would make the A/C cutout a bit larger.  This ould make it easier for the great stuff to get in the cracks.  I didnt’ have much space and don’t really know how well I sealed this in. (I’m yet to do a dry ice test).
  4. I was excited and cut the foam pieces first, but looking back I should have made the frame and then cut the foam to fit into it.  I’m pretty sure my method is a rookie mistake, but I was excited to see the foam cut out.

 Next Steps

I haven’t made the dividing section so that I can have two temperature zones inside.   I have the controller and the wiring all done and all is left is to figure how I would do this.  I’m thinking some type of relay to open and close a small opening and then a fan to circulate air.  I also have to figure out how to make the section so that it can be moved around and then “expanded” to give it a tighte fit.  I’ll have to think about this for a while, until then…

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The post has been moved to a page so that the process is a bit more permanent.

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I’m happy to say that I just got a repeater bridge setup using DD-wrt on both routers.  In the garage and in one bedroom the wireless signal from the main router doesn’t come in very well (or not at all).  this is particularly troubling since I plan to use some old phones as IP webcams to watch my beer ferment whenever I finish my fermentation chamber.

I read a lot of sites and watched several YouTube videos and failed many times.  Though I’m sure most sites were right I think the problem that I had was the encryption between the main router and the repeater router. Many blogs recommended getting the connection to work without without and then one that works setup the encryption.

I did a similar thing as many sites but with a one twist. Rather that have the repeater router connect to the main router over the real wireless lan (wl0), I setup a virtual lan on the main router. This allowed for a few nice things. First, I spent a really long time trying to get it setup directly to the wl0, jumping straight into an AES+TKIP link, and could never get it to work.  Secondly, once I went this route  I could mess with the setup without impacting the normal network with a few exceptions. This also allowed me to do the setup without turning the normal wireless into an unencrypted link.  Also, now my bridge link is hidden so I should really have any thing else using this link.

When I set this up I followed this YouTube video pretty extensively which for the changes of using a virtual lan on my main router the instructions are good.  When I got things connected I started with the AP_Bridge being visible and no encryption.  I then added the encryption and things worked.  I suppose I could have tried AES+TKIP, but I was happy with what I had working given that I spent a really long time prior to this.  Once that worked I hid the AP_Bridge.  To test things out I reset the Repeater_Bridge and it was able to connect just fine.    A quick check in the garage shows a strong signal from the repeater bridge and I should be set to go now.
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